Culinary Trails and Cultural Tales: A Story of Nairobi and Arusha

There is something universal about the sound and smell of rain but it’s also unmistakably unique, bringing memories of childhood and of home. The evening meal has long since been cleared away and it is nearly midnight in Arusha and while in rooms around my parents’ house, people are sleeping, I am listening to the rain. This is the last night of my East African adventure until I have to leave my home-from-home and the breeze that will carry me back to everyday life is currently drifting through the open window and gently blowing the curtains. It’s so peaceful.

Kenya and Tanzania offer (in my humble and completely unbiased opinion), the best safari in the world. It goes beyond some of the more polished destinations in the south of the continent, while in the Serengeti and Maasai Mara, some of the most iconic destinations are on the doorstep. There are untouched wildernesses in the south and west as well as pristine beaches on the coastline and surrounding islands. You could be forgiven then for basing your whole trip around a “bush and beach” holiday; catching glimpses of the animals before transferring to your ocean-side getaway.

But you would be missing out! On my trip this month I have not felt the white sands between my toes and there has not been a lion in sight. Instead I have been on a two city road trip, sampling the hospitality, food, art, culture and food (you have to have extra food on holiday) that East Africa has to offer. I have taken buses with the locals and reclined in the lap of luxury. So perhaps the next time you travel to East Africa, we can infuse a little culture into your experience.

Cultural Safari in Nairobi

Nairobi greeted me with its familiar hustle and bustle even late into the evening when I landed, a city ever-evolving yet comfortingly familiar. My exploration here was an eclectic mix of the new and the nostalgic. Embarking on a food tour, I savoured the culinary evolution of the city. From sizzling street food to modern bistros that blended global influences with local zest, each bite was a testament to Nairobi’s dynamic spirit. Among these culinary delights, Traventure Cafe stood out - a serene oasis in the urban chaos. Here, conversations flowed through the graceful dance of sign language, as the deaf staff bridged worlds with their smiles and gestures, teaching patrons to make themselves understood with patience and courtesy. This cafe was more than a culinary stop; it was a symbol of inclusive beauty, a place that intertwined my past with the present.

This feeling seeps into the art and architecture of the city as well with museums and galleries that celebrate local heritage and the creativity of local artists. Getting into the Nairobi Gallery was a little like arranging a visa to enter the country (in fact it was a lot like arranging a visa as you need to use the same website!) but it was worth the hassle once we had got in. The pioneer exhibition by Stan Lusega and Emmanuel Kariuki was incredible, such was their obvious passion and reverence for the history of Africa and the preservation of culture. It was a privilege to see and the day was topped off with a gorgeous little chai place in the middle of the city. Inspirational!

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TAKE ME HOME...

Trips between Nairobi and Arusha are easy, with daily flights for those in a rush and major roads leading to a mere four hour drive for those wanting to travel at ground level. One advantage of having family in the vicinity was that we managed to snag a lift from my nephew, giving me the chance to enjoy the view. The recent rains have left the landscape looking lush and green and the open roads were only held up by the briefest of border crossings – yet more benefits of travelling with family in a small group.

Have you ever noticed that when you travel home, the smallest things seem familiar? The road signs, the colour of the earth and grass, the sound of people’s accents and the smell of the air. Home sweet home as a smile crept across my face! It has been four years since I was last on Tanzanian soil and all of the days from that time to this evaporated like the early morning rain with a swell of memories and nostalgia at the thought of being back.

ARUSHA: BLENDING PAST AND PRESENT

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It has been a long time since I called Arusha “home”, but it will always be special to me. Long gone are the days of quiet sleepy villages on the outskirts and the city has spread its fingers into the countryside, old municipal buildings sitting alongside newer developments. But it is still a special place with plenty to see and do for those who know where to look. Many of my family still live in Arusha and it has been wonderful to go out with them for lunches and coffees as well as enjoying the feeling of home.

There is nothing like experiencing somewhere new with familiar eyes. Nieces and nephews have grown up so fast and absence has definitely made the heart grow fonder. I need to make sure I am not away for so long again and look forward to bringing my little boy back to experience family life in Arusha.

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Today though, I took full advantage of my experience within the world of travel, popping out to see Arumeru River Lodge with family and taking a short tour. It is a lodge that I have been in contact with since before the pandemic but had not had the chance to visit. So, leaning gently on the friendships that I have built within the industry, we headed over for a wander before enjoying a local take on fish and chips for lunch… it seems that life in the UK has rubbed off on me a bit.

And all too soon it is time to leave…

I feel fortunate to be able to look beyond that surface level beauty and soak in the culture and heritage of East Africa. Whether it is the nostalgia of the recipes drawing on happy memories of my childhood or the wonders of the new, growing through the fertile soil and the melting pot of Tanzanian culture. This trip was a rediscovery of my homeland, a narrative that wove together the past and the present. It was a reminder that while I had journeyed far and wide, my roots in East Africa remained deep and nourishing. Nairobi and Arusha, with their pulsating urban life and rich cultural tapestry, were not just stops on a traveller's itinerary; they were chapters in my own life journey, each visit adding new layers to my understanding of home; from the complexities of a world-infused city to the simple pleasure of the falling rain.

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